Faroe Islands

“Where exactly are the Faroe Islands?” This is the question most people asked me when I told them about my vacation plans to visit the Faroe Islands. Honestly, I had never heard of this tiny country of 18 islands until I traveled to Portugal and someone on my tour, who traveled extensively, told me that I must visit this country for the spectacular scenery. Well, fast forward a few years, and I’m so glad that I listened to her.

Here are some basic facts about the Faroe Islands:

1. It’s an archipelago of islands, of which 16 of the 18 islands are inhabited. The country is located between Iceland and Scotland.
2. The main industries are fishing and shipping, but tourism is picking up. Faroese salmon accounts for approximately half of the country’s export value. Side note….the salmon is delicious!
3. Total population is only 55,000, of which the majority live in its capital city of Torshavn. Outside of the capital, neighborhoods are “villages” of homes staggered along the hillsides.
4. The country’s subsea tunnel system is incredible. Many islands are connected to each other via these tunnels, which makes it very easy to commute between islands. The Faroes have the world’s first subsea roundabout, which is visually stunning. Having stayed for one week, I was able to create a home base at a hotel in Torshavn and visit a few islands each day, making it very convenient not having to pack/unpack throughout the trip. The country’s ferry system also makes visiting various islands quite easy.
5. The Faroes experiences midnight sun in the Summer. The weather year-round is temperate, so it never gets extremely cold or hot. The best time to visit is mid-May to late August. You can expect some wet weather no matter what time of year that you visit, although I was extremely lucky in my recent trip during late May. The sun came out every day and I didn’t experience any rain except for the last day when I headed to the airport.
6. Hiking is infamous here, and there is no shortage of magnificent scenic spots. Some advice….many of the hikes per guidebooks are labeled as easy, but it’s all relative. I found some of the “easy” hikes much more difficult with somewhat steep inclines. Check out hiking guides to fully understand the inclines.
7. Traveling to the Faroes from the Northeast U.S. is very easy since it’s a 5 1/2 hour direct flight to Iceland, and then only a short 1.5 hour flight from there to the Faroes. Recommendation: stay in Iceland for one night to enjoy the Sky Lagoon or Blue Lagoon.

I traveled with friends and we hired a local tour company to take us around. It was the best thing we could have done. Driving on your own seems near impossible since there’s too much scenery to take in as you drive along any of the roads! We used Guide to Faroe Islands, and I’d recommend this tour company.

Our home base was the Hilton Garden Inn, which was a fairly new hotel in Torshavn, with a turf roof to seamlessly fit into the surroundings. There aren’t many hotels to choose from in the capital, so I’d recommend reserving the hotel at least 9 months in advance. I researched the heck out of this destination, so I knew enough for us to book 12 months in advance.

In 6 days, we were able to cover a lot of ground and hit all the must-see islands. Here’s a rundown of the islands that should not be missed during a trip to the Faroes:

Vagar – the 3rd largest island in the Faroes and certainly one of the most beautiful. It’s full of majestic scenery and incredible viewing points. It was one of my personal favorites. Here are some highlights:

• Mulafossur Waterfall – one of the most dramatic waterfalls in the country that cascades into the North Atlantic ocean. Hike to the point above and past the waterfall, take a seat on the bench at the top of the cliff, admire the beauty, and gain some inner peace.

• Bour Village – here you can witness great views of the Tindhólmur and Gáshólmur sea rock formations, along with the Drangarnir sea arch. Immerse yourself in the quaint village of traditional homes with turf roofs.

• Traelanipan hike – this was one of my favorite spots. It’s a 4 mile roundtrip hike and you are treated to an optical illusion at the end of the hike of a lake overlooking the ocean. The view is breathtaking from every angle at the end of this hike.

• Witch’s Finger – a striking sea stack with an interesting story. The legend is that a witch came to drag the Faroe Islands to Iceland. When she came to Vagar island, the sunrise caused her to turn to stone and fall into the ocean. The finger remains above water.

• Sandavagur Church – the oldest Faroese church that was actually built by Faroe Islanders. Its stunning red roof makes it a stand-out among so many beautiful village churches throughout the Faroes.

Streymoy – this is the largest island in the archipelago and the location of the capital city of Torshavn. While it’s the cultural hub of the country, it’s also full of rugged and exceptional landscapes. Be sure to check out the following on this island:

• Vestmanna Sea Cliffs – this is a must-see during a visit to the Faroes. It’s approximately a 2 hour boat tour that takes you up close to rugged sea caves and blue grottos along the western coast of Streymoy.

• Saksun village – beautiful mountains surround this lovely village that showcases the turf covered church. It’s also the sight of Fossa Waterfall.

• Sornfelli Mountain – a well-maintained road makes it very easy to reach the top of this mountain for the breathtaking views. It was one of my favorite overlooks from the entire week. Tranquility abound…it’s hard to describe the beauty.

• Kirjubour historic village – this is the medieval religious heart of the Faroes, with black and red-trimmed homes in the village.

• Tjornuvik village – this village is nestled along the end of a long road with rocky sea cliffs in the northernmost part of Streymoy. It has its own beach, along with stunning views of the sea stacks Risin and Kellingin (the Giant and the Witch)

Mykines – this is the westernmost island in the Faroes and known for its puffin colonies. The best time to visit for a chance to spot puffins is between May and August. Unfortunately, I only saw them at a distance since they were all nesting, which means they were too far into the cliffside. You will either take a ferry or a helicopter ride to this island. I took a ferry. Here is the highlight of this island:

• Mykineshólmur Lighthouse & Hike – once arriving by ferry, you’ll either walk up a steep hill or hike along the edge of the island to the puffin colony. The views from this spot are iconic.

Eysturoy – this is the second largest island in the Faroes, and here you will find the highest mountain in the country. The highlight for this island:

• Hvíthamar Vantage Point – hike for a fantastic viewpoint above the village of Funningur. I found part of the hike steep, and it’s a bit tricky coming back down. It was cloudy when we hiked up, but I did manage to take a few pics as the clouds broke through.

Suduroy – this island is a gem in the southernmost part of the Faroes. Prepare yourself for more dramatic scenery as you witness stunning cliffsides and quaint villages. Here are the highlights:

• Ásmundarstakkur sea stack – the road to get here is quite bumpy, but it’s worth the ride.

• The natural harbour at Vágseiði – this is a must-see spot with cliffside scenery from all view points. The drive to this area is quite beautiful with plenty of colorful homes.

• Akraberg Lighthouse – this landmark stands out upon the southernmost tip of the Faroes. There are sweeping views from every angle.

Kunoy, Bordoy, and Vidoy – these are the northernmost islands in the Faroes. All 3 are full of charm and jaw-dropping scenery. We traveled to this area during our first day of the tour, and this scenery set the stage for what was to come the remainder of the trip. Sometimes the scenery seemed unreal.

Some general comments:

The food was unsurprisingly focused on lamb and fish. I don’t particularly like the former, so I stuck with salmon for many meals. A few recommendations are Tarv in Torshavn and Rose’s Restaurant and Catering on Eysturoy. Rose’s was a gem in the middle of nowhere. The food was fresh and fantastic.

If you appreciate natural beauty, enjoy walking/hiking, and are looking to visit a place that is not overrun with tourists, please consider the Faroe Islands. It was so refreshing to be able to appreciate a location without having a herd of people around me. The only herds are sheep!